Seriously, couldn’t they just extend the tube a bit so it overhangs the exhaust pipe???
The entire comment section seems to be missing this is assholedesign and offering the same shitty solutions without addressing the asshole design…
The operating procedure of the internet
- Scan feed
- Find post where I can ridicule OP in some way
- Engage
No, this is not asshole design. If the oil port was sticking further out, it’s gets knocked off if you lay the bike down. And then you have no oil at all, and a blown up motor.
It’s by good design the oil port is recessed. Yes it’s annoying to use a funnel, but it’s the preferable option.
?? Oil port would only need to be extended by like 0.5" to clear that exhaust pipe, the casing to the left extends probably 1-2" from that. If you lay the bike down it that casing would stop the oil port from being touched. Shouldn’t be an issue.
And the cap on the port extends another .5-1” when in place. Which means it’s sitting below the surface of the other things as is, but add .5” and it now becomes level with a few things. And level is by far enough for the cap to grab, twist and pull out. And when it does, you’re done riding for a while.
And instead of replacing the tip of the oil cap and the outer cases, you end up with a damaged block. Much more expensive.
A far better idea is to have a tool, admittedly not in every man’s possession, but tilt the bike away, remove the cap, and thread in. Tilt the bike back and you have a little spout. Clean, simple and easy. These are available for just about every manufacturers cap size and thread.
Honestly they sound like asshole engineers trying to justify their poor quality of work. Cardboard, tinfoil, and brake cleaner can’t excuse a poor design.
At least the foil idea was someone who has to deal with a similar problem on a different bike.
Does Lemmy have a “just rolled into the shop”? I would join instantly.
Bump cause I’m also interested
Make the exhaust curve back a bit? More expensive to make the part than having a straight pipe with just one bend.
Dent the exhaust? Affect flow, create hot spot right under the oil drain plug.
Expect people to be intelligent enough to put some cardboard or foil under the plug so they don’t spill oil on the exhaust? Idiots are complaining and posting their failure on the internet and blaming you.
Extend the length of the drain plug by 1cm? Something something, profit.
I personally don’t want any part of the engine casing sticking out during a crash, but maybe that’s just me.
This section isn’t on an easy to replace cover.
You can plainly see that there’s plenty of other material sticking out much further than any 1cm extension. If you were in a crash that ate through all that material first, I’m sure the engine casing would be the least of your worries.
All this mess could have been prevented with a little bit of cardboard between the drain and the exhaust, you realise that I hope.
Smoldering cardboard doesn’t sound like a good idea.
You don’t normally change oil with the engine running
I’m talking about the sparklers I’m using for illumination
Good luck lighting cardboard on fire with an exhaust
All fire needs is heat, oxygen, and fuel. You’ve got all of that there.
The exhaust gets hot enough to burn off oil when it’s idling, so I’m sure it’s hot enough to burn cardboard.
I’m not going to risk it, the tinfoil idea sounds like the goer here.
Are you doing your oil change with the engine running or something?
No, it won’t make cardboard catch on fire, just like the oil on it won’t catch on fire if you left it there.
This is super common with motorcycles. The motor should be warm, but not ignite-the-oil hot during an oil change. Clean it up with some brake cleaner.
Use a piece of aluminum foil to make a little drain to direct the oil over the exhaust.
I know that’s a solution, but as a solution to bad design it’s a little bit “Just wear a rubber glove to stop your oven electrocuting you”. Yeah sure, but maybe design it better?
Do you have any idea how much the manufacturer saved in not extending the pipe tho?
Because I have no clue. Probably wurf rite
What they actually probably saved was needing to design a whole separate engine case for each bike in their lineup to match all their exhaust configurations.
The idea of having a little pipe protruding out is a different kind of bad design. Things that poke out from engine cases tend to snag or get punched in during a crash, turning what would be some scrapes on the block into a completely totaled engine.
A genuine question if you would like please, I know you meant warm oil for easy maneuvering (oil moves faster when warm/hot), but what about hot oil? Is it safe to change motorcycle oil after an hour or more ride when the oil might be toi hot?
A co-worker of mine tried adding water to his car reservoir after he just stopped from a long ride, the water was near boiling point and it blowed up on him the moment he opened tha water reservoir (not sure that is the correct name). Can such a thing happens with oil exchange?
Oil doesn’t expand and steam like water, so no that won’t happen, but hot oil leads to very nasty burns and can melt gloves onto your hands. Most bikes run the oil around 200 degrees. So no it isn’t safe to change hot oil. Don’t do that.
And, specifically because oil doesn’t boil at those temperatures, it can be at much higher temperature than water can be as a liquid.
We tend to have a mental model of how much damage water can do at its “max” temperature, because liquid water stops existing after a certain temp.
But oil can be so much hotter than that, and still just be a liquid. It’s dangerous in that way, because while a drop of water at near boiling can only do so much damage but a drop of oil can be holding a lot more heat and hence cook a lot more of your flesh before it runs equalizes with the surroundings
No, you should just idle the bike until the temp gauge comes up. Should definitely not be after a long ride.
Foil is a great idea, I’ll use that next time.
Plus people know you mean business when you’ve got some foil.
Guy pulls over his car and brings out the the lug wrench, okay fine. He’s gonna change that tire. Let’s hope he doesn’t forget to chock the wheels, but he’s got the idea.
But you see a dude pullin reynolds wrap out of his bags next to a motorcycle on the off-ramp, that’s a serious dude. That’s the kind of dude you give that dude a burger when he walks by. That’s all I’m sayin.
… I’m going to start carrying foil with me.
my man
Next time just rotate the bike 90° so the oil drains straight out and misses the exhaust. Problem solved!
Alternatively redirecting gravity by 90° would also solve the problem, without the difficulty of needing to reposition the bite.
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Actually this sounds like an even better solution, I’ll let you know how it goes.
Oh fuck, it’s so simple! Thanks man, this is the correct answer.
Yeah my first though as well is the bike is probably supposed to be tipped when draining?
Tipping it over could cause a drop, which could be costly to replace. And if you’re just holding it to one side. You’d need a second person to either hold it, or take the plug out.
Doesn’t help for this (or the next) oil change… But look into a fujimoto drain plug. Its a mini ball valve that is spring loaded (so you have to press the leaver up before you can turn it… Also has a 2nd safety in the form of a plastic clip that prevents it from being pressed up). Makes oil changes so easy. For your bike, it might still be too recessed, but the valve has a hose barb on it too so you can direct the oil into the drain pan
Fumoto, but yes.
I like the fumoto valves for another reason - if tou have an aluminum oil pan, the valve will keep you from wearing out the threads.
I like not having to have to use a jack to get enough clearance to use a wrench.
fujimoto drain plug
duuude amazing!
Seen a lot of complaints about these thing leaking over time in the car communities. No experience myself, but may be something to keep in mind, especially of you end up laying the bike over.
I’ve noticed mine is leaking, even though I torqued the drain cap exactly to spec. Maybe it needs a washer or something.
I’m 100% buying another fumoto valve when my free oil change plan is up. I never even had to jack up my old car to change its oil.
My one complaint was that without seeing the valve, it’s super hard to remember which way you push and which way to turn. Not fun to figure out when your oil is at highway temps and you’re fumbling around between hot parts with a glove that’s getting hotter and hotter.
But that’s mostly because I’m stubborn.
I bet the maintenance guide says to use a funnel or something ¯\(ツ)/¯
Quote: yeah, let’s blame the user for not fixing the manufacturer’s shitty design
Nope.
Well the problem with that is when you lay the bike down, the oil port gets shaved off and you lose all your oil. Don’t ask me how I know.
So yeah, it’s a PITA to use a funnel, but it’s still the preferable option.
Super duke is like this too I just put aluminum foil over the exhaust.
The tinfoil idea is the answer, thanks!
It’s likely the exact same engine.
What does that do?
Keeps oil from getting on the exhaust.
Keeps ‘THEM’ from reading the exhaust pipe’s mind.
The engineering team that designed the engine never communicated with the engineering team that designed the motorcycle.
That would cost $0.76 more in materials per vehicle, unacceptable!
Problems such as these are usually a management failure. The design of individual components are often owned by a particular person or small group. They take responsibility for the design and testing. If one person owns the sump and another person owns the exhaust pipe, their work needs to be coordinated in such a way that the finished product meets all its goals. It wouldn’t be a surprise to find out that the exhaust engineer had to re-route the pipe in order to resolve some other clash and they ran out of time to fix the new problem before mass production had to start. Making complex machinery is difficult.
But they saved so much money by having it this short!!!
If they made the spout longer, people would complain that they hit it with their shoes while riding. Or complain that it limits their ability to put on aftermarket pipes. Or some other issue that might be caused by it being longer. It is all about trade-offs.
Of all the options, I think dealing with a little oil on the pipes every 3000 miles or so is reasonable, especially since a piece of tin foil would solve the problem.
It’s most likely set back to keep it protected. A bit annoying but probably better than having it stick out and be exposed.
What kind of motor is this?
The kind that goes in the motorcycle it’s in.
Motorcycle
Looks like the same model I have, a Svartpilen 401.
Exactly!
Has the bolt for your shifter fallen out yet?
Keeps the exhaust pipe from rusting. /s
keeps the exhaust lubricated so it doesn’t seize up.
I knew it was good for something My indicators siezed up just last week, shoulda replaced the fluid.
