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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 20th, 2023

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  • And the cap on the port extends another .5-1” when in place. Which means it’s sitting below the surface of the other things as is, but add .5” and it now becomes level with a few things. And level is by far enough for the cap to grab, twist and pull out. And when it does, you’re done riding for a while.

    And instead of replacing the tip of the oil cap and the outer cases, you end up with a damaged block. Much more expensive.

    A far better idea is to have a tool, admittedly not in every man’s possession, but tilt the bike away, remove the cap, and thread in. Tilt the bike back and you have a little spout. Clean, simple and easy. These are available for just about every manufacturers cap size and thread.






  • How about this then? (No promises on signal integrity of that USB signal, we are pushing limits)

    Just keep in mind, that placing the controller not at an edge, will likely make the USB port interfere with the next socket, it’s not really meant for that. Meaning you should probably de-solder the port then. Also, by powering through the 5V/GND pins, you negate the VBUS detection, and there simply aren’t enough pins/space to break that out as well, so it’s a compromise.



  • I wasn’t planning on it since sacrifices two pins.

    And seeing as the USB port is available to place by the edge very easily as you can place the controller over any key.

    To explain, the USB port should end up needing only 3-5 mm edge on a sandwich case, or a hollow similar to how most pcb’s place it on a CNC/3d case.

    Any particular reason beyond that? I’m open to reasonable compromises.

    Btw, I can easily pull them out to a pair of pads, there is space for that.